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The best way to curb infestation of worms in dogs is to monitor its diet. Human food may be given, but not when it is starting to get bad. Disposing of rotten food should also be done with care, lest dogs may topple garbage bins over and feed on the trash.

Here are the most common parasites, worms in dogs, their accompanying symptoms, and their treatment.

Hookworms

Hookworms are among the most occurring parasite that plagues dogs, because hookworms are contracted in the soil as eggs. They fasten on intestinal walls to feed on the blood supply of their host. Because hookworm rapidly populate, severe infestation may occur and can cause anemia to dog and human alike. Though hookworm infestation can be asymptomatic, severe infestation can result to a pot bellied appearance. From the loss of blood, weakness comes as a result, and vomiting.

Hookworms in dogs can be contracted as easily by a human, that’s why routine dog checkups by vet should be done. Albendazole is the known treatment for hookworm.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are another more known parasite in dogs. Symptoms for tapeworm infestation can include abdominal discomfort. This is because tapeworms can grow to several feet in length that can sometimes reach 100 feet, blocking or cramping parts of the intestine. Loss of appetite is also one of the symptoms, diarrhea, and obvious malnutrition.

Tapeworms are acquired by dogs when eating contaminated food. Given the nature of a dog’s eating habits, tapeworms in dogs usually is hard to avoid. The most obvious presence of tapeworm should be when there are segments attached on the fur under their tail or along their anus. Praziquantel is a known treatment for tapeworm infestation.

Whipworms

Also a frequently occurring worms in dogs, they are acquired by dogs as eggs swallowed, either by licking or eating food dropped into the soil. Symptoms could include anemia, dehydration, and diarrhea though sometimes they remain asymptomatic.

Fighting worms in dogs include annual if not quarterly checkups with the vet. Most worms in dogs are contracted from the soil and through other infected dogs. Because it is literally impossible to prevent your dog from playing on any patch of gravel, especially if you want to keep a healthy and happy dog, there’s no way really to stop parasites from entering your dog’s body. You can however prevent the proliferation of the parasites by dealing with them at the first sign.

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However, this is a very myopic view of dogs. There are other dogs, particularly the working class, that, like people, labor everyday to earn their keep. One such dog is the guide dogs, who carries the responsibility of helping disabled people go from one place to another safely.

A pet dog leading, and practically caring, for its owner. It’s like a story with the roles reversed and it’s amazing. So how exactly do these dogs train to become guide dogs? That’s what we’re going to find out.

What Guide Dogs Do

Guide dogs are divided into two categories, depending on the specific disability of their handlers. Thus, there are guide dogs for the blind or the visually impaired and there are guide dogs for the deaf or the hearing impaired.

The task of the guide dog is very important, as such all breeds thta are turned into guide dogs must undergo rigorous training. Their training addresses some, if not all, of the tasks below:

* Keep a direct route. Guide dogs should be trained to ignore distractions, including smells, other animals, and other people.

* Maintain a slow but steady pace. Guide dogs should walk with enough speed to enable them to remain just ahead of the handler. Also, they should stay to the left.

* Stop at all curbs. The handler would usually give the command to proceed.

* Make right or left turns. Guide dogs should be taught to respond to commands of moving forward and stopping.

* Recognize obstacles and avoid them. Specifically, guide dogs are trained to identify barriers or obstacles that the handler cannot go through. Examples are narrow passages or low overheads. They are also taught to stop at the bottom or top of stairs and only proceed when the handler commands them to.

* Bring the handler to where the elevator buttons are located.

* Lie quietly when the handler is resting or sitting down.

* Help the handler in miscellaneous tasks, such as boarding or moving around buses. Most guide dogs are also trained to tackle maneuvering around subways and other forms of public transportation.

* Obey a number of verbal commands from the handler.

And the most important thing of all: Guide dogs are taught to disobey even a command from the handler if following it means putting the handler in harm’s way.

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Guide dogs are comprised of intelligent breeds with even temperaments. Obedience should place high among their list of positive traits. One common breed used as a guide dog is the Labrador Retriever, which is a sturdy dog with a gentle but highly intelligent nature.

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Companionship can be critical to children and it was found out that dogs can readily and efficiently fill that spot. That’s why it is often recommended that smaller growing children should have a pet of their own, if only to break barriers that inhibit growth like speech impediment. Or just instilling a sense of responsibility at an early age. And naturally, dogs that are good with children are best candidates for this purpose.

Being sought more as family pet, selective breeding practices over the years were aimed to iron out aggressive traits of some breeds of dogs. Now there are those breed of dogs are highly tolerant; they tolerate well the clumsy handling of older individuals and the rough handling and playing of small children. Those that have undergone training are able to resist any instinctive retaliation when pranks are played upon them –typical to small children at play. One example of a highly tolerant breed is mastiffs. A trained English mastiff can be very tolerant and gentle that it can suffer most rough playing before showing signs of aggression, and won’t bite even then. Pointers are also famed for their low aggression level, though their playful nature can be harmful for very young toddlers. Another trite example is the St. Bernard.

Depending on the level of play of youngsters, there are suitable dogs and there that isn’t. For growing children that loves playing outdoors, dogs that are good with children should be also adaptable for such activity. That’s why Labradors, retrievers, Dalmatians and American Eskimos are better dogs. But for those especially young children, who are more cooped up indoors, a St. Bernard or a mastiff would do nicely.

In a nutshell, there are dozens of breed of dogs that are good with children. Examples include but not limited to mastiffs, pointers, and some mossolers like the St. Bernard, and conventional toy dogs like poodles. However, breed is not a de facto standard for naming dogs that are good with children, as training is highly essential for dogs of this purpose.

If you are considering dogs that are good with children, you should choose a breed that’s normally with gentle temperament like those mentioned above. And they should have the right training.

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Here are some eye problems that could affect your dog:

* Cherry Eye can occur if the haw dries out and swells. The tear duct will then appear as a red mass. If a dog has Cherry Eye he is more susceptible to other eye irritations and infections. Surgery is usually necessary to correct this problem.

* Uveitis may be apparent in your dog if he blinks or squints and has a clear discharge from the eye. The eye itself can become discolored or dull. Your dog will also want to avoid brightly lit areas. Treatment such as antibiotics and pain medication may be needed to treat this infection.

* Dry Eye happens when the cornea is damaged by a breakdown in the tear film. Scar tissue can build up and cause eyesight problems. The eye needs to be lubricated and antibiotics may be administered.

* Eyelid tumors can occur. They are usually benign but should be treated.

* Glaucoma, as with humans, is the build up of pressure in the eye. Some dog breeds are more susceptible to glaucoma, such as Basset Hounds and Cocker Spaniels.

Keeping your dog’s eyes free from debris will reduce the risk of infection and eye conditions. Never let your dog travel in the car with its head out of the window. If he does this, insects, dirt and debris could get caught in his eyes. Eye injuries from dog fights and car accidents can also occur.

If you see your dog squinting or excessively blinking, or pawing at his eyes, he may have a problem. Inspect your dog’s eyes regularly during grooming sessions. Take note of any abnormalities and have them seen to. With long haired dogs, it is important to keep hair out of the dog’s eyes by regularly trimming the ‘fringe’.

If you think your dog has something in his eye, make a solution of salt and water (one teaspoon salt to a pint of water) and squeeze the liquid in his eyes. If this flush does not remove the object, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

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Plaque is the soft gummy deposit that grows on teeth. Plaque is made from saliva bacteria mixed in with minerals and food residue. Although plaque is initially soft, it can become hard and discolored if left on the teeth. When it hardens it is known as tartar. If this deposit is not removed it will eventually affect the gums, causing infection, which can lead to teeth loosening and falling out. It is a very painful condition in both dogs and humans.

The key to controlling plaque is to get rid of it before it turns to tartar. In dogs, this is a very simple procedure. Three methods are recommended for keeping your dog’s teeth clean.

1. Give your dog raw bones to chew on. Chewing on a bone will ensure tartar does not build up on your dog’s teeth. Make sure the bone is raw as cooked bones can splinter and get stuck in the dog’s mouth and bowel. Hard biscuits or kibble are also good for your dog to chew on and aid in the removal of plaque.
2. Brushing you dog’s teeth is the second method. There are various tooth brushes available and toothpaste flavored to a dog’s tastes. Some people use a finger brush (a rubber sleeve with soft bristles, slipped over your finger), others use regular human toothbrushes or you can buy a special dog toothbrush. You should brush your dog’s teeth regularly – about once a week. So now you are going to brush his teeth. Make sure your dog is in a relaxed mood before you start. Get him used to the procedure before you introduce the toothbrush. Stroke the outside of his cheeks and then let him taste a bit of toothpaste off the end of your finger. Do this a few times before you try it with the brush. Now try it with the paste on the brush. Brushing only one or two teeth at first, move the brush in a circular motion – take your time. Build up the amount of teeth you brush over the next few sessions until you are brushing all the teeth, especially the ones at the back. Thirty seconds is long enough to be brushing your dog’s teeth.
3. Once a year you should consider getting your dog’s teeth scaled at the veterinarian’s. If you take care of your dog’s teeth, an annual scale and polish is all your dog will require.

Looking after your dog’s teeth will help in his overall well-being and will result in your dog having fresher breath, being healthier and living longer.

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A dog’s nails are different from humans. They have a hard outer covering which is there to protect the inner part of the nail. This part (the quick) is softer and has veins and nerve endings running through it. Some dogs have lighter or white colored nails. These ones are easier to see the quick as it is a faint pink color. However the quick is difficult to see in dogs with black nails. You need to be extra careful when cutting these nails so as not to nip the quick. Not only will there be blood but it will be painful for your dog.

If you want to carry out the nail clipping procedure yourself, you will need a few tools. Firstly, purchase a good set of nail clippers, either a guillotine type or a claw cutter (for bigger dogs). You may need a file for rough edges and some clotting powder in case you cut too far and cause bleeding.

Okay, you are ready to start clipping. Here’s what you should do:

1. Dogs may not take kindly to this procedure so it’s a good idea to introduce them to nail clipping when they are puppies. Get your dog used to having his paws held and stroked. You may also like to apply light pressure to his nails by pinching them softly. Give your dog a treat when he lets you do this successfully.

2. When you are ready to trim the nails, put a towel under the paw, in the event you cut the nail too close. Have your clotting powder at the ready for this event.

3. Get your dog to lie on the floor and hold him firmly. Pick up his paw and ready yourself to cut the nail from front on. Talk in a soothing voice to relax your dog.

4. Get your clippers and slide the opening over the nail. Clip smoothly and quickly with a steady hand.

5. If your dog’s nails are white, you will be able to see the vein that run through it. Clip off the nail to just before the vein. With black nails, you will have to go carefully. Cut a small bit off the end of the nail. Look for a small dot in the centre of the nail – this is the vein. Keep clipping off small amounts until you see this dot. When you see it, stop clipping. If you accidentally cut this part, apply pressure on the nail to stop the bleeding or use your clotting powder.

6. Don’t forget to clip the dew claw (above the dog’s ankle).

When you’ve finished the clipping procedure, reward your dog with a treat and a cuddle. Hopefully both you and he will soon become experts at this procedure!

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Roundworm – this worm is the most common parasite found in animals. Dogs can often be born with roundworm as they become infected when the roundworm is transferred through the placenta from the mother. These worms may be vomited up by the dog or passed in the stools. Anthelmintics or dewormers are used to treat roundworm.

Heartworm – is fatal to dogs if left untreated. Dogs should be given preventative heartworm treatment regularly, as prescribed by your veterinarian. If a dog is found to have heartworm, the treatment is very traumatic for your dog.

Tapeworm – this parasite is transmitted through fleas. If you keep your dog free from fleas, this worm will not be a problem. You will know if your dog has tapeworm if you see egg sacks (which look like grains of rice) around your dog’s anus. A trip to the veterinarian will be necessary for a prescription to rid your dog of tapeworm. Owners can either use a deworming medication or injection on their dog to help control this parasite.

Hookworm – these tiny worms are found in the dog’s intestine and hook on to the intestinal wall where they suck out large amounts of blood. This parasite will kill a puppy quickly. It is very contagious to other pets and humans and needs to be checked for regularly. Deworming medications are used to treat hookworm.

Whipworm – these are long worms shaped like whips living in your dog’s colon. Their presence may go undetected except through a stool examination. Your dog may show signs of anemia, weight loss and blood in his stools if whipworms have taken up residence. If you are giving your dog regular heartworm preventative medicine then you will find that whipworm is kept under control as well.

Coccida – this tiny organism is not a worm but is invasive in the dog’s intestinal tract. Your dog will suffer from diarrhea and possibly a reduced immune system. This parasite can be removed with a daily treatment of an antimicrobial agent.

Fleas – these insects can cause skin problems and allergies in dogs. They can also carry disease and are often hard to keep under control, especially in hot weather. Flea collars, shampoos and combs can help keep this problem under control. Regular maintenance of your dog’s coat will help keep these insects away.

Your dog will need regular check ups at the veterinarian to ensure parasites do not become a problem. Keep a look out for these nasty little creatures to ensure your dog stays healthy.

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* When you begin socializing your dog, take it slowly! Do not overwhelm him with too many visitors, smells, sounds and experiences at once. You want your dog to be relaxed, not fearful when he meets new people and goes to new places.

* Introduce your dog to everyone - mum, dad, children, visitors and strangers – anyone who comes in to the home and you meet when walking your dog. Encourage the people your dog is meeting not to be fearful of him. Dogs can sense fear in humans easily.

* Let your dog play with other dogs and socialize with them. Your dog needs to learn that dogs come in all shapes and sizes and smells and he needs to be familiar with these differences.

* Take your dog to different places. Let him experience the park, the car, friend’s yards, the neighborhood, the beach, the vet, car parks and any other dog friendly place you like to visit. The more experiences your dog has, the less fearful of different circumstances he will become.

* Introduce your dog to different objects and sounds. Dogs are fearful of thunder and firecrackers and these are difficult to get used to as their ears are so sensitive. You could use a tape of these sounds and introduce them to the noises slowly. Objects such as vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, noisy kitchen appliances can all be frightening to your dog. Help him get used to these everyday objects.

* Some dogs don’t like being brushed or bathed. If you get your dog used to human handling and being patted all over, grooming will become a pleasurable experience, rather than a fearful one.

Dogs that have limited or no socialization grow up to be fearful dogs and are not good as family pets. Dogs needed to be handled by humans by the age of sixteen weeks or they will trust no one. When socializing you dog, have a calm, happy approach when you are meeting new people or introducing your dog to new situations. If the owner seems happy and relaxed, the dog will soon realize this is not a fearful situation. Watch your dog for signs he may not be comfortable with a situation. Excessive yawning or panting, growling, or tail not wagging will indicate your dog is becoming fearful. Don’t force the socialization process. You can always try another day if your dog becomes agitated.

Socialization of your dog doesn’t end once he is no longer a puppy. You must continue to take him out and include him in everyday experiences so he continues to be a well-socialized pet.

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1. Work out several single syllable commands you will use with your dog. Dogs don’t speak English so you need to keep your commands simple and consistent throughout the family. Words such as “heel”, “go”, “stay”, “down”, “off” are all common terms used when teaching dogs obedience.

2. Use a firm, kind voice when training your dog. Their hearing is much more acute than ours so yelling at your dog will not make him do things any better.

3. Always use positive reinforcement when your dog does the right thing. When teaching them obedience commands such as “sit” or “stay”, reward them with affection, encouraging words such as “good boy”, food treats or play.

4. Dogs love games, so if possible, employ game playing into your obedience training sessions. This way, your training sessions will become their favorite time of the day.

5. Start each obedience training session with your dog sitting on the left hand side, in the “heel” position. When your dog has mastered this command, he will be ready to try a new one.

6. Don’t train your dog for longer than fifteen minutes at a time. Like a child, a dog’s concentration span is shorter than an adult’s.

7. When you give your dog a command, don’t reward him until he does the right thing. Reward him immediately he gives the correct response.

8. Be patient with your dog. It may take quite a few practice runs for him to do the things you want him to do.

9. If you need to punish your dog for incorrect behavior, you must give the punishment immediately after the act has taken place. If you leave it a few seconds to give the punishment, your dog won’t know what he is being disciplined for. He will not link his bad act with the punishment and will become confused and even fearful.

Giving your dog obedience training will not only make him a better behaved pet, but it will also help in socializing him. Directing your dog in a positive way gives your pet a ‘job’ and helps him expend some of his mental energy.

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